As an entree to Michael Moss’s excellent new book, try this experiment. Imagine or place two bowls in front of you: One with potato chips; the other with whole walnuts. Make sure they are both good quality brands and fresh from a never-opened bag. Sample a walnut first.
Enjoy how its initial slightly bitter crunch transforms into something soft, buttery, faintly woodsy. Next munch a potato chip. Its flavour is less complex than the walnut’s, but every chip instantly delivers an intense combination of salt, sugar and fat. They.