After a wait of 12 years, neelakurinji flowers will return to Western Ghats

Of the 12 cardinal sins that are said to guarantee one a spot in the fiery halls of hell, gluttony is the one most likely to take me there. I find myself unable to resist appams fresh off the stove, served with spicy motta (egg) curry and hot cardamom tea. “Chechi [older sister], you do know we have to drive uphill,” a cousin reminds me. That makes me stop at my fifth appam. Our agenda for the day is a visit to the rolling hills of the Eravikulam National Park, about 15 km from the tourist hotspot of Munnar in Kerala. Then, we’d drive down the ghats for a boat ride on t.....

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